DENSITY | The Real Victory of Ann Arbor Over Lansing

First, name this quote…."You are my density!" Sorry. I couldn't resist. 

 
 

Another week, another dilemma…

First thing Monday morning a peer at work asked for a restaurant recommendation in Lansing. I was stumped. Now, to appreciate the gravity of this void, understand that  I'm a Spartan. I spent three years living in E. Lansing and working in restaurants while finishing my undergrad (I still mourn the Evergreen Grill). For me to have not a single inspired thought speaks volumes to the crippled state of Lansing's food scene. But why?

Lansing's a fair sized city, in fact, larger than Ann Arbor.  According to the 2010 Census Lansing has 114,297 residents, 464,036 when you consider the entire metropolitan.  Similarly, Ann Arbor has 113,934 residents,  334,791 including the surrounding community. Wouldn't population alone warrant some at least some greatness?

And East Lansing is a University town. Not only is MSU enrollment nearly 2X U of M, but it's a land grant college founded on agriculture. Ag is food. Shouldn't they be leading the gastronomic revolution? And Lansing is the State's Capital, arguably the most powerful zip code within the great State of Michigan. Wouldn't that attract lots of elite dining events? 

Tragically, no. But why? 

Lansing has three primary commercial districts, campus, east (Okemos) and west (downtown Lansing). The unfortunate reality though, is that not a one of these distinct communities alone can generate the sustained financial traffic required  to support a discerning palate. Downtown is a ghost town past 5:00 PM, campus is too student focused to warrant a higher ticket and Okemos is too geographically isolated from both.  Restaurants in each area end up fighting for dollars with broad "accommodate everyone, delight-none" menus. 

So why does Ann Arbor work? In one word, density. 

Last month the Observer wrote a tribute piece on Dennis Serras. Along the way they hypothesis that Ann Arbor owes it's foodie glory to Dennis and his partner's decision to cluster four restaurants next to each along Main Street. There's some truth in that idea. Main Street is not a business district. Most folks with a day job remain north of Huron. Main Street is not Campus. And as our city will forever debate, Main Street does not provide the suburban equivalent of free parking. Still, we've seen the Main Street corridor evolve into one of the foremost restaurant districts west of New York and east of LA save for Chicago.  Why? 

Having Main Street Ventures build four restaurants on Main Street definitely generated traffic, but that traffic wouldn't exist without a separate prerequisite - density. In a broad oversimplification, I'd argue that we spend time in three places, at home, at work and at play. Restaurants need to pull from all three to generate dining occaisons.

Ann Arbor has successfully nurtured a balance of all three. Our state's capital, conversely, has not faired as well. Work (Lansing), Home (Okemos) and Play (Campus) are separated by miles, not blocks. This makes it impossible for any one area to establish critical mass. The resulting landscape has a name, Sprawl. The resulting gastronomic community also has a name - crap. 

Speaking of crap (kidding!) - I did manage to put together a list of Lansing area restaurant options. For those of you who have reason to visit Lansing, check it out. Below is a revised copy of the e-mail response to my peer. Did I miss anything? Let me know in the comments.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

OK – I have made my peace with Lansing’s food. The only restaurant I’ve been excited about in the last 10 years has since closed. Urbanspoon has ZERO listings for Lansing or East Lansing, and Yelp is clogged with bar food. You’re MUCH more likely to enjoy the atmosphere than the plate.  I think the best thing for you to do is let proximity to other activities dictate. You'll need to need drive no matter where you're headed. Here’s three regional options. Finally, when given an option, I would encourage you to opt for the more casual. The fine dining scene in Lansing lacks the "urban sophistication" of Ann Arbor. Anyone expecting that level of experience will be let down. 

CAMPUS 

El Azteco – 225 Ann St.  Originally a small, dirty hole in a basement, they’ve since moved into the current sunny roof-top patio landmark without losing the down-to-earth charm. It’s an institution in East Lansing akin to Dominicks or Angelo’s in Ann Arbor. You MUST order the Topopo Salad. I’ve never finished one by myself.

Beggers Banquet Restaurant and Saloon (218 Abbot Road) Old school dinner house since 1973  that hasn’t changed an iota since 1973 (they still have London Broil on the menu!); always a favorite for their wine list. Don’t worry about it being too fancy though, MSU is originally a land grant college (agriculture) so the campus never established a glamorous or formal air – the famous mantra at Beggers banquet is “gimme eat.” 

BEST PUBS / BAR FOOD: There are threee equally awesome, though distinctly different pub/bars that warrant consideration.

Harrison Roadhouse (the only option easy walking distance from the Campus Convention Center & Hotel) A gas station converted into a pub. Tremendously charming. Markedly more grown-ups than the average E. Lansing bar. 

The Peanut Barrel: Closest to a physical classroom, the patio provides a perfect vista for watching life on Grand River. The burgers are tremendous. Perhaps the best analog to Ann Arbor's Casey's (am I stretching?)

Crunchys: If Fraser's was on Campus this may be what it would look like. An athlete's sports bar that still considers George Perles a good man. 

MSU DAIRY STORE:  MSU is an ag school - right? Well nothing will drive that home more than a trip to to The Dairy Food Complex. The group operates a retail shop where you can sample fresh cheese and ice cream made on site. Is it the best you've ever tasted? No. Is it wonderful? Yes. 

RANDOM POINT OF INTEREST AND SYMPATHETIC JAB AT LANSING: This speaks volumes for the culture in Lansing… If you were visiting Seattle for the first time you’d make a pilgrimage to Pike’s Place and pay homage to the original Starbucks. In East Lansing you go to 270 West Grand River Avenue to get coffee at the original Bearners / Bigby’s Coffee – which I believe is a former Arby’s.  

OKEMOS (east side, suburban – driving)

Many of the hotels are on this side of town; the major landmarks are the Meridian Mall and I-96 exit #110.  It's clogged with strip malls and chain food. That said, there is one block of quaint old Okemos between I-96 and campus where you'll find an old institution of a joint.

Travler’s Club International Restaurant and Tuba Museum This place has been a hippi favorite since the 70’s. They’ve had a garden out back and craft beers since before local or craft beers were a thing. Thee hippi tendancy add mores vegetarian options than most menus. The menu was always decent. The charm is amazing!

 Dusty's Cellar  A much better shop than restaurant, Dusty's is the Okemos area's Merchant of Vino with a dining room. Stop in for picnic supplies. If you stay for a meal I'd recommend the newer, more casual wine bar versus the circa 1980 "Regal Beagle" dining room. 

DOWTOWN LANSING (West side, driving)

5-10 minutes from Campus – In the 80’s downtown Lansing proper was the red-light district – and of course, our state’s capital. Then the city built a AA baseball stadium (Lansing LugNuts) and a Convention Center and development followed. It's getting noce. Now all it needs is people.  

Michigan Brewing Company: This is sprightly more commercial than craft, but it’s the home of Kid-Rocks “Bad-Ass Beer” – so they have that going for them. Truthfully, this company owns a much larger commercial brewery in Webberville where they brew and bottle a LOT of craft beers. They’re good people in the state’s brewing community. 

Last Resorts: Troppo & Tavern on the Square (same owners) Think Ravens Club with less ploish. 

BREAKFAST OR BRUNCH?

I love going out for breakfast. There’s something inherently social and simultaneously decadent about the idea. Add to that the notion that the day is anew, and you have a recipe for pleasure.

Last weekend my brother was in town. After an idyllic Football Saturday we woke Sunday with an immediate hunger, no wives present, and not a clue of where to go for breakfast. As odd as it may sound, it’s been years since it’s been my choice. It seems that some other force, beit geography or my wife’s desire has always taken precedent over free will. I was overcome with optional paralysis.

To make it worse, my bother pressed, “do you want breakfast or brunch?” He wasn’t being rhetorical or sarcastic, but for some reason his question put me into a tailspin of confusion. What’s the difference? I’ve been asking friends that same question all week.

Amusingly, I've found this question to unveil some very strong opinions. Some have argued pasionately for opposing sides. To say I’ve reached consensus is a bit of a stretch, but I have captured enough insight to establish a personal base-line.  Here’s the vital core.

Egg Options: There was healthy debate on this matter, but more than not, folks agreed that a “breakfast” joint would offer eggs any way you want it. Can you imagine an egg over easy during Brunch?

Daily Service: This was a clear divide. Brunch is a Sunday sport. Breakfast is offered a minimum of six days a week.

Open prior to 9:00 AM: Again, fairly clear. Breakfast can start as early as 6:00 AM. Brunch before 11:00 appears gauche.  

Wait staff:  Sorry Zingerman’s Delicatessen, you may serve eggs, but until someone comes to my table, take my order and fills my coffee, I’m still gonna call you a deli – not a breakfast joint.

Alcohol: I had one friend fight feverishly that brunch mandated alcohol. While I love me a well-made Bloody Mary, I couldn’t help but acknowledge our legislature. In Michigan it’s illegal to serve a Mimosa, or any liquor, prior to 12:00 Noon on Sundays. If that were a stipulation, many a great pre-noon brunch would be rendered breakfast.

So where to eat? Ultimately, the decision my brother and I made is inconsequential. I will say that we chose brunch, not breakfast.  But the deciding factor may surprise you – it wasn’t menu, or price, or even geography – it was time. At 9:45 AM we knew we’d have to wait for a table at most any breakfast joint. There was however, a small window of opportunity to sneak in somewhere before the brunch crowd. Even still we ended up sitting at the bar to avoid waiting- darn home-game crowds.

As I discussed the defining attributes separating breakfast and brunch this week I had the opportunity to revisit my opinion of many a local establishment.  Rather than pick a favorite, or top 3, I thought I list a collection of fine examples, Here’s a morning tour of Ann Arbor and a few thoughts on each stop.

Breakfast Part One - On Foot (Downtown)

Angelo’s:  An institution worth celebrating.  Arrive by 9:00 AM or you’ll be standing in line. Once inside you’ll need to abandon your attachment to traditional fare. Their eggs benedict, one of my favorites, is NOTHING like the original. Their cappuccinos are like “Big-Gulp” latte’s. And everything is huge. Deep fried French toast? Bring it on!

deep fired french toast from Angelos (photo by Foodspotting)

Afternoon Delight: Location, Location, Location. Nothing bad, nothing great.

Side note: This was voted most likely spot to find the “breakfast of shame,” a close cousin to the “walk of shame.”

Broken Egg: Location, Location, Location. Nothing bad, nothing great.  (yes, I said it again)

Cloverleaf: I have a buddy who’s affection for Rollingrock beer is summed up by this simple mantra, “when money’s tight, the rock is right.” Substitute the word ‘rock’ for ‘leaf’ and you have the Clover.

Fleetwood: Though you may need a tetanus shot on the way out, you can get Hippi Hash 24-7. Need I say more?

Breakfast part Two - In a Car (listed by compass points)

NORTH – Northside Grill:  My father in-law raves about their pancakes. I dig the breakfast sandwiches. No matter what you order, there’s a distinct quaintness about Northside.

EAST - Flim-Flam:  At first view this is a local Denny’s circa 1970. However, once you step inside you realize that everyone is this family-run establishment evokes as much pride as a regal palace. I love it.

EAST - Café Marie: Practically hidden within the Courtyard shops, Marie offers an admirable amount of fresh ingredients, vegetable-filled omelets and warm service.

SOUTH - Benny’s: If Frasers sold eggs, this is what you’d find. The food is nothing noteworthy, but U of M athletes and locals alike can’t get enough of this diner’s charm.

WEST - Bell’s Diner: The highlight here is your ability to get a bi-bim-bop alongside pancakes.  The “East-meets-West” theme is further confused by the “Southern-Colonial-Kitchen” décor.

WEST - Holidays: What happens if you want spinach pie and your friends want eggs?  Go to Holidays.

Brunch

AUT Bar: Sunny days sitting outside in Braun Court are an Ann Arbor treasure. Regretfully, there’s a large portion of townies that may not have been to the Aut Bar – and I dare say there’s some Aut Bar regulars who prefer it that way. Both groups need to get over themselves and share the love. The menu has a strong Mexican influence harkening back to when the current owners Mother operated a Mexican restaurant from the same site. I’m nuts for their sweet potatoes.

Café Felix: Nowhere have I ever missed smoking like I do at Felix. I feel like I should were a black beret and scold the bourgeois. The food can be hit-or-miss, though over the years they’ve managed to curtail the misses. A solid choice for a lower-key occasion.

Gandy Dancer: Speaking of bourgeois, if ever you feel the need to put on a blazer and take grandma to a formal Sunday brunch, go to the Gandy Dancer. The building is stately. The buffet presentation is worldly. The Bloody Mary’s are divine. The overall thrill, meh.

The Grange: A relatively new entrant to the brunch circuit, the Grange and Chef Brandon have created a stunning brunch menu.  Local foodie Tammy Coxen calls their duck confit poutine with an egg on top “to die for.” Now if they would just do something about that carpet.

PS: It was also Goerge Clooney’s first choice when in town filming this past March.  

Seva: If you know what the Moosewood Cook book is, you’ll appreciate Seva. This is an “old school” vegetarian menu which is to say they serve a lot of bland food and offer hot sauce to spice it up. The coffee tastes like compost. It was the rage in 1973, and little has changed since then.

The Raven’s Club: I’ve said my peace about the Raven’s club. I have yet to try their brunch. Go at your own risk.

Zingerman’s Roadhouse: Believe it or not, this is the one meal of the week where I am not an unrelenting evangelist for the Zingernauts. Don’t get me wrong, I love brunch at the Roadhouse – their grits rock and I’m becoming hooked on their presentation of Huevos Rancheros – but brunch is a group occasion and I find their menu choices limiting in the “group pleasing” category. As always with Zingerman’s, the service is top shelf and the little touches make life grand.

Zola: Those who love a well-made Crepe appreciate that it is an art. Zola has it down. But frankly, their menu is much more than crepes. Their Turkish eggs are superb, as is their choice of Zingerman’s breads. Perhaps the most stunning aspect of brunch at Zola, however, is how their large front windows allow the morning sun to wash over the entire café. If you’re lucky enough to score a sidewalk table you’ve reached the pinnacle of Sunday morning.  NOTE: Some will challenge my classification of Zola as Brunch vs. Breakfast. First of all, get your own blog. Second of all, remember my egg requirement. I have a hard time believing Zola would make a pancake or serve a single egg over easy with a side of bacon.

 Turkish Eggs at Zola (photo from Foodspotting) 

Easter Eggs

I couldn’t talk about breakfast in Ann Arbor without mentioning three gems that don’t fit into either of the aforementioned categories. If you’re not already familiar with these choices be sure to investigate.

• Selma: A self-described, “ Breakfast Salon,” Selma operates out of a private home every Friday morning. Don’t be fooled, this homestead averages 150 meals a week. The menu is short, usually three or four items reflecting the local harvest as interpreted by the weekly volunteering chef. All proceeds go to support the Farmer’s Fund, a development trust providing resources to build and nurture sustainable agriculture within our region.  
• Durham’s Tracklements: In the shadows of Kerrytown, amidst the hustle of Zingerman’s Deli and Monahan’s Fish market exists a small nook where magic is quietly happening. It doesn’t get the press attention of its folksy neighbors, but be advised – this is a to-shelf purveyor of custom smoke provisions. As a special treat, they open their doors every Sunday morning offering a limited carry-out breakfast menu. The tamales are especially noteworthy.
• Barry’s Bagels: Clearly not as esoteric as Selma or Durhams, Barry’s bagel is worth a mention. Sometimes we forget how small Ann Arbor once was, and in some ways, still is. And in every small town there are key merchants who’s purpose to the community goes beyond the immediately apparent. Barry’s is one of those places. Yes, the bagels are grand, but the real magic happens while you’re in line, or waiting to pay – both of which take longer than necessary. There’s a steady flow of locals townies, bona fide Ann Arborites who were born and raised in the community. Many of these locals are regulars who have made Barry’s a ritualistic part of their day. If you frequent Barry’s you’ll get to know these folks – and pick-up quite a bit of gossip along the way.

PULL MY PORK...a story of Pig.

 

The onset of fall and the return of football season conjures up a distinct imagery. As it relates to my stomach, I see big piles of meaty carbs. Lately my favorite meat pile is a stack of fresh, juicy pulled pork. In a short period of time we’ve gone from being a veritable BBQ-dessert to having a serious spectrum of choices.

Now understand, when you’re talking barbeque, you’re talking in a multitude of languages. Carnivores having been cooking over an open flame since the beginning of time…literally. There are as many styles of barbeque as there are people in this world. And some would argue that trying to identify objective preference ratings for this form of cooking is like making a choice between Mary Ann and Ginger. It’s simply a matter of taste. I disagree.

Flavor is subjective – technique is not.

In a minute I’ll share three wonderful ways to enjoy amazing barbequed pulled pork in Ann Arbor. Before I do however, let’s review some basics.

Meat: PIG

The name may vary, but the anatomy is the same. In Italy it’s Porchetta.  Mexicans favor Carnitas. In Israel it’s filth. To me, it’s all pig, specifically shoulder – AKA “blade” or “Boston Butt.”  Think of everything north of the loin, south of the head. There should be fat. There should be bone.  Historically this has not been considered a premium cut. I believe that’s the reason that barbequed pulled pork has such folksy love – it’s an everyman cut.

Cooking : Low and Slow

Most food technique is universal. There may be regional subtleties that impart flavor (think hickory vs. mesquite), but the science remains constant. For Barbequed pulled pork it must be cooked over a low heat open flame for many hours. Slow cooking in an oven or Alto Sham does not count. That’s roasting. I’m a fan of roasting. Give me a standing rib roast and eight hours and I’ll give you the best prime rib of your life. Just don’t slow roast pork and call it barbeque. The flame adds a smokey essence that cannot be imitated with sauce.

Serving: “Pulled” vs. Shredded

Here’s the single most telling attribute. It the pit master has cooked the meat correctly, it becomes so tender that it will fall apart when raked with a fork, or “Pulled.” If the meat has NOT been cooked corectly, it takes a much more forceful effort, resulting in shreds. Large tender hunks are a good thing. “Shredded wheat meat“ is not.

Sauce

Here’s where the chaos ensues. I once sat through a culinary briefing where an executive chef from an unnamed multi-national food corporation used 41 Powerpoint slides to articulate eight distinct flavor regions within the US. Cleverly, our own Satchel’s has even begun using distinct retail bottles for their sauces to distinguish and imply those regional styles (FYI - they also use a mug shot of TV’s “House” to identify their house sauce – nicely!). Who gives a flip? Pick the one you like. Personally, I prefer no sauce. If the meat is cooked well it’s already moist, juicy and tremendously flavorful.  Furthermore, I think room-temperature sauce smothered on hot barbeque creates “temperature conflict” in your mouth. But that’s me. The only time I’m genuinely pleased with sauce on my barbeque is when the meat is simmering in it. But that’s an entirely separate debate.

Q in A2

OK – now that we’re all ridiculously craving barbeque, let me give you three options. And rather than trying to rank them qualitatively, let me outline three unique use cases, or occasions.

OPTION 1 – I NEED BEER: Zingerman’s Roadhouse

If a sit down meal is in order head on over to the Roadhouse. Call me a fanboy, call me biased, or call me “Skippy” – just know that Chef Alex and the crew have got it down. Admittedly, they use more than just the shoulder, smoke it for 14 hours and then give a nod to the pit master’s skill by referring to it as chopped and pulled rather than just pulled. If you order the sandwich you’ll also get the best coleslaw in town and a Bakehouse onion role. To round-out the awesomeness order sweet potato fries and a Motor City Brewing Co. Ghettoblaster Ale.PS:  If you want to whine about the price go find someone who cares.

OPTION 2 – BYOB, or BYOQ: Satchel’s

     

No, you can’t bring beer to Satchel’s, but you CAN bring Satchel’s to your beer.  I’ve quickly learned how to incorporate Satchel’s carryout into my homebound commute. But what if you’re having a party? No worries. You have to respect a menu that sports options like “Three pounds of meat with sauce and three quarts of sides.” Better yet, rumor has it my man Hugh ‘has grill will travel.’ Why not invite the smoke to your next tailgate. You’ll be the envy of every neighbor. For more insight into this tremendous Alabama transplant read by February post (link).

OPTION 3 – Q On the RUN: Biercamp

OK – so you’re running about town with a grumble in the tummy and you need a quick bite for under $5 (4.99 to be exact). Run, don’t walk to Ann Arbor’s newest meat palace, Biercamp. Predominantly a retail shop, this romantic duo also offers sandwiches to go, or eat in at their window bar. It is sublime. In my opinion, the meat rivals anything in town, the slaw while not the star, doesn’t detract, and the bread is perfect. Bravo friends. While you’re there pick-up some jerky pate. It’s sure to become an instant classic.

There you have it. Three ways to get ‘yer Q On. Now go in peace (but not before adding a comment below; this is supposed to be a conversation people!).

• PS: Recently two separate, though equally well-regarded friends purchase the “Big Green Egg” ceramic barbeque. They have both become evangelical in their egg-lust. If you’re thinking about taking on pulled pork at home, you may want to consider going down to Big Georges and getting yourself one of these. It ‘aint cheap – but something tells me this baby is an investment in taste that will payback dividends for years to come.
• PSS: The photos are from my recent Instagram hobby. Do you have a filter preference?

Bikes, Beers and de’Bauchery

A riding tour through the brewing fields of Michigan 

Traditionally the foodies and beer fanatics in my life have not overlapped. You know the stereo-types...

A “beerist”, or beer fanatic is some bearded, ultimate-playing slacker that hangs out in packs between Fish concerts.  A beer fanatic’s diet consists of alcohol absorbing carbs and salty snacks; anything in a bun or on a stick. Beer fanatics don’t cook, they barbecue. If you know that Saison is a light, hoppy, warm yeast IPA you’re likely a beerist.  In my life, beerists tend to be my guy friends; the “dudes.” 

A “foodie” is often, and in my opinion inappropriately, assumed to be a gourmet (remember we’re talking stereotypes, not reality); an elitist aficionado that listens to NPR and reads the New Yorker to prepare banter for their next dinner party. A gourmet’s diet consists of exquisite morsels sourced from thoughtful purveyors. A gourmet doesn’t cook so much as they dine. And a gourmet doesn’t drink beer, they carefully pair wines with each course. If Thanksgiving make you scream, “It's Beaujolais Nouveau Time!" you’re likely a foodie. In my life, “Foodie/gourmets” tend to be my female and or gay friends (no judging!). 

Lately however, I’ve noticed a curious trend....the once red-state / blue-state divide in the color-wheel that is my social life has found a slice of purple. More and more, the foodies have begun merging with beer fanatics, and vise versa. “You’ve got your chocolate in my peanut butter!” Perhaps this blog entry will further strengthen this newly formed peace accord and provide interest to both parties. 

Foodies have long had the opportunity to make a vacation out of their passion. Maybe you yourself have summered in Tuscany or had a long weekend in Napa. For the beerists however, the options are severely more limiting. You may have brought back a stein from your trip abroad, but was the beer garden really your travel partners primary destination? This sumer I’ve had the opportunity to do just that - make beer and beer culture the primary focus for a few truly memorable day trips right here within the fine state of Michigan. Check it out...

Motor City Bike and Brew Tour (Detroit)

When’s the last time you considered gathering your friends for a summer ride through Detroit? Me either. But that’s exactly what I did this August. And I’d do it again. Here’s the scoop.  

Steve Johnson, an enterprising son of Michigan, has recently created a pretty cool new venture in Motor City Brewing Tours. Steve offers walking, riding, or bus tours dedicated to the art and history of brewing in the state of Michigan. By tremendous luck, I was the benefactor to a perfect birthday gift - a bike tour with my brother-in-law. 

“A three hour tour...”

We met our guide at the Motor City Brewing Company. While they encourage BYOB (bring your own bike) you can rent a cycle from their fleet. To keep things manageable, groups are limited to twenty. After a short briefing on safety and riding etiquette we set-out. Riders of any skill level will be comfortable. And everyone will appreciate the unique view of Detroit. 

It’s key to understand that this is a “bike and brew tour,” which is to mean, the day focused on biking and learning about Detroit’s brewing history - NOT drinking. Steve’s knowledge on the historical business and culture of brewing will challenge any long-time Detroiter. It was surprisingly compelling that we visited a host of sites that stand vacant or torn down. these sites were peppered between neighborhoods at contrasting states of decay and revival. 

Brewing, it turns out, stands as well suited analogy to the city itself. Humor me for a minute...In the early 1900s a rich, enterprising group of pioneers grew through the century to become global industrial leaders, only to crumble and implode years later amidst international competition and internal social battles. Now, in their wake a new group of enterprising pioneers are building an evolved version of themselves, smarter and stronger. We miss you Strohs. Welcome Detroit Beer Co.

Highlights 

All within the same nine-mile circle we rode through vandalized, broken streets south of eastern market to the newly renovated, beautifully landscaped Dequindre Cut Greenway, into the gleaming shine of Campus Martius, and then back up through the bombed-out western flank of Foxtown. Along the way the group paused nine or ten times to hear the stories of men long past. Near high noon we stopped for lunch at Grand Trunk Pub where we had our first, LONG awaited taste of Michigan beers and a hearty lunch.  Ultimately the tour retuned to the Motor City Brewing Company where we parted ways, receiving vouchers good at the Brewing Co, or Traffic Jam and Snug which sits directly across the street.

It was a great way to explore Detroit and spend some time contemplating beer. For more info on the Motor City Bike & Brew Tours, click here.

Shorts Brewing Company (Bellaire, MI)

After my bike tour through Motor City I was inspired to make a detour on my August trip up noth and visit Shorts Brewing Company, one of Michigan’s newer breweries. Shorts, started in 2004, has garnered a fair amount of attention of late for their “liberating” beers. Their primary production facility is in a light industrial plat in Elk Rapids. I still aspire to make it there someday. For my first visit I choose the more popular destination, Short’s pub in Bellaire.  

 

Bellaire is a quiet, still charming village to the northeast of Torch Lake. By car I made it from Charlevoix in just over thirty minutes. In the future I’d consider planning a ride and using Shorts as the finish line. There are a few fine shops lining the street, but Short’s has clearly become the highlight of any visitor’s trip to Bellaire. 

Enter the pleasuredome

As you may have also come to appreciate, a pub - or restaurant or bar - is more than a fueling station. It’s a space where we live, albeit for a limit amount of time. Where do you want to live? For me, Shorts Pub is exceptionally livable. Aesthetically it’s warm and functional, yet witty and artistic in it’s execution of repurposed renovation. At first glance you wouldn’t think it, but the sun soaked front window lounge area seats are actually school bus benches. The large hanging light shades are kegs cut in half. Brilliant.  

Beers

Obviously, the main attraction is the beer. The day we visited there was roughly twenty choices on tap. Making a selection can be daunting. I was impressed however, with Short’s clever approach to sampling. We were offered the chance to design our own flight of fiver beers. Short’s prepares daily tap lists, much akin to a paper sushi menu. You simply choose five from the list and then they deliver a plank of glasses aligned in a suggested tasting order. The list includes tasting notes to aid the experience. Brilliant. 

Like most craft brewers, the list was dominated by ales. Still, it’s impressive how they manage to create distinctive varietals within the category. Many Shorts fans outside of Bellaire are familiar with Huma-Lupa-Licious, an IPA homage to hops that seems to have been extensively promoted this year. But have you tried their Pontius Road Pilsner? It mimics the hoppy finish, but in a lighter bodied, still full flavored lager. Speaking of Saisons, their partnership to create Captain Fantasy was a spot-on balance of yeast versus fruity hops with soft notes of apple and pear. Well done. 

 

Food: While Shorts has a full menu, I barely sampled the menu as our group agreed to share a pizza. For future reference, the menu also includes an enticing list of sharing food - spreads and dips, sandwiches and salads. Now understand, pizza is like beer in that even when it’s bad it can be pretty palatable. At Shorts it was, to be frank, completely pedestrian. It severely lags the beer in creativity, flavor and character. I’m very anxious to return and try other options from the menu. 

Wolverine State Brewing Company (Ann Arbor, MI)

OK - so maybe this wasn’t a true day-trip experience, but since this was their first summer I had to give a special shout out to my favorite new “bike-able” tap room. Liepold Brother’s exit left a huge gap in Ann Arbor’s brewing community. We lacked a place to celebrate craft beer without the baggage of an on-site restaurant. I’m pleased to report that Wolverine State Brewing Company has filled that void! 

As I mentioned earlier, the craft beer community is crowded with Ales. Perhaps it’s because Lager’s use a different yeast (don’t you dare call me a bottom feeder!) and arguably, can be more difficult to manage. Well, if lagers are difficult, Wolverine doesn’t let it show. Don’t be misled. WSB started in retail with a wonderful, though not particularly challenging 'Premium Lager'. I refer to it as “approachable.”  If that’s all you know, you don’t know WSB. With the introduction of the tab room they’ve developed a full line of unique lager styled beers, and even an Ale from time to time, that will please any beerist.

Lately it seems everyone is competing to create the hoppiest IPA. As a fan of hoppy beers I dig it. In that vein I suggest you try the Gulo Gulo. Some witty sole at WSB has dubbed it an IPL - or Imperial Pale Lager. Yea, they went there. If that’s a little too much for your pallet, try the Green Thumb. It’s like “gulo light.” Another Lager-Ale stylistic turnabout is the Wench’s West Side Wheat. It’s a perfect option for the throngs of people who consider Oberon the Summer beer gold standard. 

Interesting Side Note: I just found a source that was able to corroborate the rumors. Blue Moon was in fact designed by brewers at the Coors company who were trying to match the fine Wheat Ale know as Oberon that one Michigan native and Coors staffer had brought back after a visit home. 

So there you have it. My summer chapter on beer in the great State of Michigan. What’s your favorite destination for beer and beer culture? What’s the best food experience you can attribute to beer? Tell me about it in the comments section. 

Meet my MEAT!

 An Ode to Farmer Ben and Bending Sickle Commuity Farm.

(image lifted from localharvest.org)

I recently heard about a curious hobby...apparently some crazy folks actually purchase uncooked food, and then take it home to prepare. Odd I know, but my accountant suggests I try it. 

Fact # 2: My grandparents were Sicilian farmers. By the time I came into this world they were living in the Detroit area. Still they farmed. Their entire yard was consumed by tomatoes, zucchini, egg plant, strawberries, flowers and a host of random greens and herbs that even my now 80 year-old Aunt struggles to pronounce. And this was no farm mind you. They lived in a quintessential suburban-sprawl east-side neighborhood. Still they farmed.

 And the food they didn't grow came from known sources - usually one of six or so Italian markets and bakeries they would bounce between depending on season and sales. My favorite was a shop I never had the fortune of visiting. The Chicken shop. This particular stop was in the 'old neighborhood,' Detroit - where my grandparents lived until the riots drove them, like so many of their peers out of the city. And though I never went, I've heard the story so many times that it’s became entrenched into my families narrative. 

Here's how the story goes. A day or so before a big family dinner my grandfather would load up my older siblings and drive to the old neighborhood. He'd take them to a shop that had live chickens in the front room. LIVE chickens! They were brought in from a local farm. The kids would naively pick their favorite bird. Once the a bird was chosen, the shop keep would take said bird into the back room. Still oblivious, the kids would wait for their bird to be “dressed.” Finally, a good while later the shop keep would emerge from the back with the bird, now dead and without feathers, wrapped in butcher's paper. 

Sure there's some traumatic humor involved in this story, and yes, we still taunt my sister about it, but there's an important lesson to be gleaned. You should know where your food comes from. 

Fast forward forty years (christ I’m getting old). 

This spring I made the conscious decision to “know where my food comes from.” I have a garden, but it’s more a hobby than sustaining food source. I needed more substantial supplies. Luckily Ann Arbor’s foodplain is in bloom. We have a tremendous amount of well suited local farmers and purveyors. Today’s blog is a serious shout-out to one of my new favorites, Farmer Ben.

Bending Sickle Community Farm

Have you heard about Tilian Farm Development Center? If the answer is no, google it and learn. I could, and some day may, write many a poetic blog posts about the wonderful people and activity behind Tilian. That’s not for today. The germane fact for today is that Tilian is the home to Bending Sickle Community Farm. 

Bending Sickle is Ann Arbor’s newest livestock farm. And while I haven’t done very extensive research, I believe Bending Sickle to offer Ann Arbor’s only heritage breed CSA. MEAT! By the way, if you’re not familiar with CSAs, you can google that too.

I’m a proud carnivore. I believe in the food chain and I celebrate the opportunity to sink my teeth in to slaughtered flesh. PETA be damned. Now understand, while I easily turn my nose up to the emotionally charged politics of most animal rights groups, I’m still an educated and conscious consumer. I by no means advocate for or endorse the less savory practices employed by some commercial meat packers. I do advocate humane animal husbandry and processing of meat. Welcome Farmer Ben.

In June I joined the Bending Sickle CSA. I’ve now received two shares. I am endlessly impressed with the thought and care that goes into Bending Sickle. For those of you who still harbor “hippi-yippi” views of our local food supply, let me dispel the myths.

Yes - It’s really a farm. One of the most refreshing aspects of Bending Sickle is the jarringly natural setting. There are no veal fattening pens, or   crowded, dark chicken coupes. This is a working farm. The animals roam free within their fenced-in confines.  Members are welcome to visit the farm and walk the grounds and visit the animals, as I have done. 

Throughout the season CSA members receive regular e-mail updates, filling inquiring minds with relevant facts and taunting anticipation. It’s an important component to the CSA model. We all strive to be educated consumers. The e-mails keep us connected and informed.  

Once mature, Farmer Ben takes the animals to a certified organic, and properly USDA inspected facility for processing. CSA members receive frozen, hermetically sealed packages that can be thawed for immediate consumption of quickly packed in the freezer. Members also receive some well prepared recipe cards and handling suggestions. 

Unlike weekly produce groups, the disbursement cycle for Bending Sickle is monthly.  Just like produce though, the items included in each share vary based on growing season and harvest yield. To date I’ve received ducks and roasting chickens. Later this year I’ll also receive goats and hogs and turkey. I’m postponing the financial analysis of cost-per-pound, but to date I am perfectly content with the  value of my share. 

Selections from my Bending Sickly Booty (Duck, Perch, Chevre, Kefir)

CHEVRE. FISH!

Perhaps the coolest aspect of Bending Sickle and Ben’s approach to the CSA is his inclusion of additional items. Both disbursements have included perch or white fish fillets. The fish add two benefits. On a practical matter, it increased the yield of my share at a time when meat was slightly more scarce. On a more philosophical level though, including fish is a nod to  the pragmatic intention of a CSA. Farmer Ben isn’t so arrogant as to say only meat from his land can be considered. And he’s promoting the greater community by giving credence to the great lakes and the Michigan’s fine anglers. 

Speaking of pragmatic - goats produce milk. So Farmer Ben capitalizes on that fact. Each share to date has included a nice portion of fresh chèvre. For the turophile, this is not the pungent, formed and aged French cheese you’d buy at Zingerman’s - it’s flavor is clean, refreshing and light. I’ve used it in place of cream cheese, making a perfect summer snack of cracker, chèvre, salami and fresh pitted cherries. Unknowing friends were shocked to find that it was goats milk cheese. I also received some fresh kefir (goat yogurt). 

Pretty cool huh? I’m already giddy about carving my Bending Sickle Turkey on Thanksgiving. Have you roasted a duck lately? Either had I. And all of this is available right here in Ann Arbor. Take that Vermont! Like my grandfather before me, I now have a “chicken shop” to become part of my family story. Right on Bending Sickle Community Farm.

 Sustainability....closing thoughts

My quest to “know where my food comes from” is more than an academic pursuit. It’s closely tied to my desire to buy local. Understand,  many people mis-interpret the intent of “buy local.” Local for the mere sport of local is nothing more than charity (can you say Oldsmobile). We have to acknowledge that we live in a global economy that survives on commerce. Economic Darwinism will always prevail. My ode to Farmer Ben is a definitely a nod to quality, but it’s also a conscious decision to invest in our community. To celebrate and protect the things we hold dear. (woa - pretty grandious huh? Did I just get preachy?)

I love meat. And I love raising my family in Michigan. I’m grateful that I now have a way to source tremendous chops and, hopefully, help another man finance the ability to raise his own family right here in Washtenaw county. Here’s to you Farmer Ben. Crack a beer and Fire up the grill!

Speaking of beer, stay tuned for my next post on the Motor City Bike & Brew Tour and my pilgrimage to Short’s Brewing in Bellaire, MI. God bless summer in Michigan. 

PS: Bending Sickle is still accepting members for the duration of this season. Open your wallets and join me in promoting sustainable carnivoires in Washtenaw County.