TRUE STORY

[This story seems be resonating on my personal Facebook page so I thought I'd share. Enjoy]

8:00 AM Saturday I stop for gas at a random sketchy station. As I start pumping gas, in drives a bass-booming hoopty packed with four kids I can only describe as “thuggish.” I become confident in my assumption that they are NOT, like me, on their way to volunteer at the school garden. The only question unanswered is whether their day is starting or ending. In quick succession they park; we make eye contact; I nod; they scowl. 

To create a mental distraction I pull out my phone and check e-mail. Surprisingly, as I’d just checked my e-mail prior to getting out of the car, I have two new e-mails. Suddenly engaged in a last-minute note about my duties at the garden I fail to see one of the perps approaching me with his arm raised.

“Hey, is that the new iPhone?”

Having just spent the last week showing off my new geek flair I reflexively say “yea, check it out” and hand the guy my phone. In the same instant I become 30% resigned to the fact that I may never see the phone again.

“It’s so  thin…and light!”

Right?!”

“Are you on 4G?”

“No, LTE.”

“Damn! That’s fast. Can you face-time on cellular?”

“I can. And I have.”

We both beam at one another, sharing a moment of un-adulterated geek-gasm.

In another quick succession his buddy exits the station with an energy drink. He hands me back the phone. They get back in their car and speed off. As they pull out he smiles and tells me to “keep it real.”

Indeed.

FICTIONAL FLOURISH: After sharing notes on our phones we decided to meet later for coffee. At this very moment I’m baking a fresh batch of Kale chips to bring for a snack. 

VOILA | Fresh Kale Chips for my coffee date (Kale Compliments of the Selma Cafe front yard Garden! Thanks Lisa!)

MILL'N AROUND | The Cider Issue

It's a big season for Apples… On Wedneday hard-core geeks like me live-streamed the iPhone 5 annoucement. It's also Rosh Hoshanah, a time when we dip apples in honey to wish for a sweet new year. And finaly last, and by no means least significant, it's Cider Season in Michigan! What a better time to share my thoughts on Cider & Donuts?

Pinot of Interest: Living in a border state fosters Canadian friendships. I’ve recently learned that my Canadian friends share our love for Cider and the experience of visiting orchards in the fall. However, like so many Bizzaro-world US-Canadian twists, they have their own colloquialism for this cultural icon. They refer to Cider Mills as ‘Apple Barns’, as in, “I can’t wait to visit the Apple Barn.” Those Kooky Canucks.

Cider     So, inquiring minds want to know, what apples make the best cider? Good question. Some mills post what apples are being used for that day’s cider. While I appreciate the knowledge, I never knew enough about apple varieties to appreciate whether today’s crop was better than the next.

It turns out that almost all cider is a blend of apples.  The trick is to achieve the right mix of Sweet, Bitter Sweet & Sharp Varieties. Unless you're a obsessive-compulsive cider fanatic don't bother learning their names. Most are unfamiliar European breads used strictly for cider and juice - not the common lunch box varieties. And in most cases, the exact varieties used by each mill change over the coarse of a season as the different apples mature and harvest at slightly different intervals.

To make fresh cider, apples are washed, cut and ground into a mash the consistency of applesauce. Layers of mash are wrapped in cloth, and put into wooded racks. A hydraulic press squeezes the layers, and the juice flows into refrigerated tanks; Relatively simple. Still, commercial juice will usually skip this time staking process, opting instead for massive industrial stainless steel presses.

Cider is also unfiltered and unpasteurized. I'm not going to waste your time debating the issues surrounding pasteurization. I'll simply say that cider must be unpasteurized. The heat from pasteurization forever changes the flavor. Unfiltered is an equally important attribute as filtering juice removes critical fruit solids.

 Mulled Cider     The recent “Mixology” culture has brought a lot of attention to mulled, or warmed and spiced cider. Let’s be clear – there’s nothing better than fresh, cold cider. That said, I appreciate a hot drink on a frigid autumn day. Just do me a favor, ease-up on the spice. There’s no reason to over-load natures perfection. The majority of “mulled” coders taste more like an Easter Ham than apples.

Hard Cider     What adolescent boy hasn’t tried to leave a jug of cider hidden in the basement for a month only to find that there’s more science to fermentation than pure aspiration. God bless. Thankfully we live in a world where the desire to create alcohol has out maneuvered science.  Hard cider is also making a commercial comeback. We finally have respectable options beyond Woodchuck. Many of the states brewers are adding cider to their repertoire. This past weekend I had the chance to sample Brewery Vivant. Like their Ales, the cider was impressive. Give’m a try.

DONUTS     Yes, Cider get’s the top billing, but it hard to deny that the real treasure is hot cider donuts. For a while I've been wondering just how it is that cider mills came to make donuts. Why not fritters? Why not strudel, Kringel or the All American Pie? God bless the google. It took all of one minute to find a perfect explanation in the Boston Globe.

 Boston Globe: By Luke Pyenson, Globe Correspondent  |  October 10, 2007

“…Cider doughnuts are a well-known accompaniment to apple cider, but nobody knows exactly when and why the two were first eaten together. According to the "King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion," recipes for beignets, a kind of high-class fried dough, came here from France and Holland during Colonial times. Autumn was the time for fall butchering, and so it was the only season when there was enough fat available to fry things. As a result, doughnuts became an autumnal treat in the Northeast. In many homes, "cake" doughnuts - made with baking powder or baking soda instead of yeast - would be fried in fat rendered after the slaughter. This coincided with the season for apple cider production, and the two seemed to be a natural pairing. Whether someone spilled cider into the doughnut mix accidentally or purposely wasn't recorded. But there is actually apple cider in the batter for cider donuts. In fact, it's often the main liquid.”

LOCAL CIDER MILLS     I grew up in north Suburban Detroit. For those familiar with the Woodward corridor you’ll appreciate that there are two types of families in Oakland County. No, I’m not talking about Ford and GM, though that was also a clear line of demarcation. I’m talking about Franklin vs. Yates; i.e. those families who visited the Franklin Cider Mill and those who went to Yates. The debate is futile. Both are amazing. 

Since moving to Ann Arbor I’ve spent years searching for the local “Franklin.” Washtenaw has significantly more agricultural land than Oakland, affording many more orchards. I’ve been to all but one. Here’s a run down of some local options.

Author’s Note: This year’s weather has been devastating to the Michigan fruit crop, apples included. Local Cider Mills have been forced to buy apples from surrounding counties or states. The impact means less cider, less revenue and in some cases, no profit. Please do A2GastroBoy a favor by helping the farmers. Pay more for cider. Buy a bottle of syrup. Tip the hayride driver. Keep these businesses in business.

Alber Orchard & Cider Mill, LLC, 13011 Bethel Church Rd., Manchester

Their Pitch: “…Historic Alber Orchard & Cider Mill, established in 1890. Over forty varieties of apples. Fresh, all natural apple cider. New this year is a pick your own pumpkin patch and horse drawn wagon rides on weekends. Located approximately 15 miles southwest of Ann Arbor.”

My Take: Manchester is a haul. I dare say Alber’s alone is not enough to warrant the drive. That said, it’s a fine option for those folks who find themselves in the area.

Dexter Cider Mill, 3685 Central, Dexter

Their Pitch: “…Oldest continuously operating cider mill in Michigan, on the bank of the Huron River. Wood pressed cider, fresh apples, carmel apples, donuts, strudel, turnovers. Apple pies made on premises. Old fashioned ginger snap cookies, applenut bread with walnut topping. Original pastry mixes, jellies and pickles.

My Take: Heaven; truly one of the most fantastic Mills around. Understand, the grounds are not huge. You will not find hoards of activities for the kids or hiking trails. You simply find a perfect mill, charming people and a tranquil creek-side vista to enjoy some of the best cider and donuts our state has to offer. Oh…and a lot of bees. Bring the EpiPen. It’s also a tremendous motivation to extend that Huron River bike ride just a bit further – and then reward yourself handsomely.

Plymouth Orchards & Cider Mill, 10685 Warren Road, Plymouth

Their Pitch: School tours, pumpkins, wagon rides, petting farm, cider pressing operation. Products sold: farm market products, retail apples, cider, donuts. Attraction in October - storytelling evening and weekends.

My Take: Here’s a great option if you’re looking for a kid-friendly afternoon activity. The petting farm, wagon rides, and drive will eat-up a few hours. The cider and donuts are solid – go with the sugar donuts. The “dining hall” styled donut room can get a bit chaotic in high season, thereby neutralizing the peaceful-easy feeling of the orchard.

Wasem Fruit Farms, 6580 Judd Road  Milan, MI 48160

Their Pitch: Wasem's Fruit Farm is a family-owned and family-oriented orchard, taking pride in  high-quality products, especially pick-your-own apples, pumpkins, and tart cherries.  Also featuring homemade, unpasteurized cider and delicious fresh donuts made daily during the autumn season.

My Take: You never forget your first, right? My first fall in Ann Arbor was celebrated with a drive to Wasem’s. It’s forever-since held my heart as the best u-pick experience in Washtenaw County. The cider experience is a bit no-frills compared to alternatives, but frankly, there-in lies the charm. Alas, you’ll have to wait until next season to see for yourself. Here’s a note from the Wasem’s:

"We will not have pick your own apples this year due to serious freeze damage in the spring. At this time we have not been able to purchase apples either fresh or to make cider. We are now open Thursday - Sunday from 9 am - 6 pm for donuts and other items. Check our Facebook page for current updates."

Wiard's Orchards & Country Fair, 5565 Merritt Rd, Ypsilanti

Their Pitch: “…Wiard's Orchard offers a wide variety of activities including pick your own apples and pumpkins, cider mill, donut shop, farm bakery, animal petting farm and the country fair weekends in September and October. The country fair weekends boast of great family entertainment, pony rides, wagon rides, live entertainment from two stages and much, much more.”

My Take: [using your best Jeff Foxworthy voice] …If you prefer Briarwood to Nickel’s arcade – you might like Wiards. If you don’t get the difference between Canton and Ann Arbor – you might like Wiards. If you’ve ever called a Honda a ‘rice-rocket’ – you might like Wiards. Are you starting to get my point?  This is the most commercially exploitive and batardized orchard in the county. Visiting Wiards on a busy weekend combines the pleasure of a trip to the DMV with the culture of a Jersey Shores episode.   Enter at your own risk.

Jenny’s Dexter Market, 8366 Island Lake Road  Dexter, MI 48130

Their Pitch: NA – clearly Good ‘ol Burt has let the domain expire.

My Take: I include this in the list with mixed emotion. First of all, you need to know that this is not an orchard, nor a mill. Yet you can get great local cider and fresh donuts. I’ve known of Jenny’s for a while. They hold a land-mark piece of real estate just west of Dexter. Every season there is a host of charming kid-centric animal and game-ish attractions.  Now for the counter-point… If you read the AnnArbor.com with any regularity, you’re sure to know of Jenny’s troubles. In the fall of 2011 an employee was tragically injured while giving a hayride. Since that time the proprietor of Jenny’s, and the market itself, have been the center of many stories – and not all pleasant. This is definitely a “enter at your own risk” establishment.  Here’s my advise – use sound judgment. If you enjoy a good donut come on over. If you need some fresh vegetables, stop by. If you want to put your 3 year-old on pony for that perfect Facebook photo….think again.

There you have it. You’ve wasted another good portion of your life reading my drivel. Wanna return the favor? Hit comment and type away.  

Sub-A-Dub,dub | SUB SHOPS

AUTHOR’S NOTE #1: Today’s post is by no means a highfalutin fancy food piece. We’re talking about Subs…AKA Heros, Hoagies, Torpedoes, Grinders, Blimpies or Zeppelins. Working class sandwiches. If you follow me to hear about the latest chef in town today’s post is not for you. If you appreciate gastro-diversity, read on.

AUTHOR’S NOTE #2: A “Cheesesteak” is not a Sub. Eagles and Jet’s fans can kiss my ass. A Cheesesteak is the Gastronomic equivalent to kibbles and bits. Even when Chicago tries to “sheesh-it up” and call it an “Italian Beef” I turn my head and puke. Enough said.

SUBS      I love subs. You may call them something else, Hoagies, Grinders, Heroes – but we’re all talking about the same thing – Italian Cold-Cuts on fresh bread rolls. I don’t remember my first, but I am forever enchanted with the genuine artifact.

Image #1: My father would make special trips to Julian’s Bakery to get fresh sandwich rolls. Then we’d got to deli and get paper-thin slices of Mortadella or “dime-thick” slabs of hard-salami.  If it was a special occasion we’d splurge get Capicola. Once home we’d use our provisions to make Dagwood sandwich shrines. Amen.

Image #2: Forget Kobayashi….Long before the “Superbowl” of Competitive eating (Nathan’s Coney Island) made it to ESPN Detroiters had the “Tubby’s Challenge.” Finish a five-foot Sub in 5 minutes and it’s free. Whether it’s fact or fiction, I have fond memories of Tommy Campbell loosing the battle in front of a crowd of neighborhood kids and then sheepishly having to admit he hadn’t brought any money. It was the juvenile analog to bailing a friend out of jail. To this day, west-coast cronies still make facebook posts bragging about receiving Tubby’s sub-sauce as host gifts.

I Love subs.

What makes a sub sandwich?

The Bread: For me, there’s only two mandatory attributes….white bread, ie not whole grain and it must be used in it’s entirety, ie. not sliced bread. From there things vary considerably. As a Sicilian, I prefer softer Italian breads to crusty French rolls – though both work. Sesame is a nice touch, but not a prerequisite. Just bake it fresh, cut it lengthwise and got to work.

The Meat: Here’s a rigid, albeit totally subjective opinion from A2GastroBoy, turkey is NOT a cold cut. I love turkey. You should too. Just don’t call it a sub. There are three meats that belong on a sub. You may pay homage to any one of them individually, or mix and match. They are Salami, Hams (including Capicola) and Bologna/Mortadella – ALL PIG.

The Cheese: Provolone. Move on.

The Condiments: Here’s an area where I take pause. One of the core tenants of a sub is that it’s a workingman’s sandwich. As such, it’s often forced to travel or sit in lunch pails to be eaten hours after assembly. To that end, condiments can ruin a sitting sandwich. And frankly – another core tenant of a sub is the meat. These sandwiches celebrate the flavors of pig. Why disrupt that with another flavor? Here’s where my mind is today.

Lettuce & Tomato: Totally fabulous. It adds texture and a false attempt to claim you’ve consumed vegetables.

Mustard: Unacceptable – but more importantly, unnecessary

Oil & Vinegar AKA Dressing: Fine. Equally fine without. Be VERY weary of the soggy factor. And for those of you convinced that Tubby’s sauce is the magical essence, read on.

Oregano: Here’s the King. Yes Basil rocks, but Oregano is my favorite Italian herb. Whether it’s blended into the dressing or shaken on top, the final, and quintessential ingredient is oregano – not sauce.

To Grill or Not to Grill: Debating Hot vs. Cold

This is perhaps the only area where I sit in total ambivalence. Frankly, I like the heat. I’m a big fan of subs that are run through the oven prior to adding the condiments. The contrasting warmth of hot pig and chilled crunch of freshly shredded iceberg creates a delicate symphony. I also respect the way provolone, meat and bread combine to create one unified bite texture when served cold. Take your pick.

Pressed-Grill Sandwiches: Here’s where I will make a note. I’ve recently paid considerably more attention to the sub shops that press-grill their sandwiches. Conceptually I’m a fan, but in each case I’ve found the result to fall short. The weight of the grill compresses the bread beyond ideal. And in most cases, the sandwich maker loads the vegetables inside, pre-grill, rendering them luke-warm and uninspired. Verdict: Leave the grill to Panini’s.

Subs in Ann Arbor

As an adult living in Ann Arbor I found myself disconnected from my sub sandwich heritage. Ann Arbor doesn’t have Buschemi’s or Bootleggers. We have Zingerman’s. I think my Zingy fan-boy status is a given. But Jewish Deli and Italian Subs are two separate universes. What’s worse, Ann Arbor is littered with the gentrified Subway and Jimmy John’s franchises that are to subs what Little “Sleazers” is to pizza – CRAP.

Luckily there’s more to Ann Arbor than Arborland or Banh Mi and “born townie” friends have lead the way home. I’ve found a few worthy subs that recreate my past.  Here’s a run-down of some Ann Arbor sub shops worth noting…

TASTING NOTES: For consistency, when reviewing each of the following establishments our panel ordered “Italian” subs and nothing else. Yes, a few of these shops have other signature sandwiches. Still I remain focused.

Mancino'sDiBella'sPizza Bob's "Italian Tostada"  

 Dibella’s     YES – I fully acknowledge that this is a chain. I am not diametrically opposed to chains – just shitty ones. And when I started surveying friends more than one trusted source encouraged me to try DiBellas. Frankly, I’m glad I did. This joint does a respectable job. 

Starting with the bread, it’s baked fresh on site. Agreed, so is Subway’s bread. But at DiBella’s they’ve managed to produce something with character and texture. I ordered the “Godfather” which comes with Genoa, Capicola and Ham – all fine versions. When asked “do you want everything” I received lettuce, onions, black olives and spicy-pickled peppers. DiBella’s  “Famous Oil Dressing” is fairly emulsified making it closer to a creamy Italian than true oil and vinegar. My final delivery was hot, baked prior to topping, and impressively large for a “Medium”.

Izzy’s     I’ve come to understand that Izzy’s is a cult. There are fellas who claim to show-up five days a week for lunch. Which is good – because that’s about the only damn time this place is open! Izzy’s is like the Washtenaw Dairy of subs. A total Ann Arbor institution, complete with crotchety old-timers debating why the spread offence was bound to fail at Michigan.  The sub hold it’s own. Though truthfully, it’s second fiddle to the crowd of good folks. Plus – I’m still a sucker for fountain pop in a Styrofoam cup. Thanks Izzy.

Mancino’s     I included Mancino’s as a favor to some Spartan buddies who came-of-age making “I’ve got the munchies” runs to Mancino’s on Grand River. Mancio’s falls into a distinct category of sub shops, which is to say they are not a sub shop, they’re a pizza joint that makes subs. This is a key shortcoming. I’ve found that most all shops in this category make compromises in the name of convenience. Mancino’s is profoundly mediocre in every way. And in my research for this piece I re-discovered something I had forgotten all those many bong-tokes ago…The Mancino Italian sub includes Italian sausage pizza topping pellets. It’s great when you’re under the influence, but not entirely divine today.

Maize & Blue     Here’s the reigning campus champion. I hadn’t planned on picking a favorite, but this is definitely in the running. The Italian is an eight-inch white bread literally crammed with Ham, bologna and salami. Served cold, this is one sub that passes without the heat. It’s topped with light oil and oregano. No single element stands out as a signature piece – rather this sub demonstrates the power of harmony…and girth. And the experience comes with an impressive display of Wolverine pride, celebrity citings and owner-operator Bravado. Bravo.

Pizza Bobs     Here’s another option that was included in our research to appease a specific constituency. Pizza Bob’s rarely makes the radar in local foodie conversations. Still, there was more than one person encouraging me to try it. Let me save you the suspense – both of these knuckleheads are suffering from inflated and over-romanticized undergrad memories. Pizza Bob’s sucks, as evidence in the photo that I’ve since named, Italian Tostada. Leave this place (and the entire block) to drunk co-eds.

Potbelly’s     After trying DiBellas I wanted to re-explore more chain sub shops. In a pinch I’ll eat a #5 Vito’s at Jimmy John’s, but I didn’t feel like it was worth of a formal citation. Potbelly is another story.

Admittedly, I’m allowing my business degree to render my opinion biased, but I am enchanted with Potbelly. It’s an impressive, and to this day privately held company. Prior to re-taking the reigns at Starbucks Chairman Howard Shultz invested in, and consulted with Potbelly.

Potbelly’s been on both my professional and social radar for years. Long before Potbelly moved into Michigan I had experienced the joy sugar cookies hugging your milkshake straw. Some friends in Chicago affectionately named the sub/milkshake combo a “hangover helper.” But there’s more than just good drunk food and high-priced rents.

 Potbelly strikes the perfect balance between kitschy-charm and well-engineered business savvy. It is a perfect classic sub? No. Is it fantastic? Yes. Well before the known connection I likened Potbelly to subs to Starbucks Coffee. I don’t brag about it to my hipster friends, but it’s definitely on my regular circuit.

Scottini’s     OK – so we’ve all acknowledged the obvious, Sottini’s wins the award for best signage. Should they ever close I personally will start a fund to purchase the sign and keep it as a public artwork.

Ridiculously unrelated Side Note: Can we please take a brief moment of silence to remember the fine neon signs lost in the recent and not-so recent past….RIP Ypsi-Arbor Bowl, Beer Depot, Pinball Pete’s Pink Elephant and most recently, the vintage Arby’s Hat sign on Washtenaw.

Challenge / Commission Request to all Photographers: Business signs, particularly neon, are a lost art. There are a few remaining specimens in Ann Arbor that have yet to be appropriately captured in film. I fear we suffer another loss without notice like the Arby’s sign. Can someone with a good lens please shoot the following landmark signs (and share copies with GastroBoy!

• Webber’s (both the large neon road sign and the small “enter” arrow)
• Ann Arbor Muffler (Jackson Road east of Maple)
• Westgate W signs (not neon, but tremendous ‘60’s era sample)
• Dascola Barbershop
• Heidelberg
• Ulrich’s (future child’s quote, “Mom, what’s a book store?”)

OK – back to Sottini’s. While I don’t remember this always being the case, Sottini’s is currently subscribing to the pressed-grill philosophy of subs. The result is mighty tasty, but some-how not magic. Here’s my observation. When you use a press grill, the outside temperature of the bun doesn’t match the luke-warm center. The meat becomes room temperature, veggies are no longer cold and the overall result is just ok.

That said, half of my sandwich made it home and found it’s way to the fridge. Once entirely chilled, the sub scored much higher marks – like cold pizza, but unlike my prom date, sometimes the morning after IS better than the night before. Thanks Sottini’s. Verdict: Order it cold and enjoy the hell out of it.

OK – Put a fork in it. I’m done. It’s nearly noon and I’m now sufficiently starving. Time to grab the seed and head downtown for lunch. Where should we go? Hit the comment button and share your thoughts.  

FALL RESTAURANT GUIDE

Welcome back Gastro fans.  Here’s the good news: after an extended summer vacation I find myself sitting on a backlog of content.  Here’s the bad news: When I finally arrange for a few precious moments to edit these ideas I fall into a perpetual state of optional-paralysis, not knowing how to prioritize. Solution: Procrastinate.

To that end, I’m using today’s precious editing time to write a new piece. Yesterday the dotcom (or dotbomb depending on your perspective) ran a teaser-piece previewing a new restaurant opening in the former Parthenon space. I happened to see the piece immediately after seeing a tweet from Mani Osteria -  a teaser photo of the progress at their new neighboring restaurant.

It’s an exciting time on the Ann Arbor dining scene. We haven’t had this much to talk about since early 2011 when Mani, Raven, Frita and Mark’s Carts opened. I thought I’d get a jump on the chatter and give you my perspective on a few of the most noteworthy changes coming our way. Check it out. Agree? Disagree? Know of another spot left out? Let me know in the comments section.

• Author’s note:  Kudos to Melanie Maxwell. She has an amazing eye and captures some tremendous images. Her work is one of the highlights of the dotcom/bomb. I’ve borrowed one below. Let's see how long I make it without a take-down notice. Free Press my ass.

Photo by Melanie Maxwell (annarbor.com)LENA / Café Habana

Owners: Jon Carlson, Greg Lobdell (AKA the Mission Group) and friends

Previous Work: A portfolio of Michigan restaurants, breweries, and rehabilitated properties

Gossip on the Space: These boys get it right. They have an amazing awareness of space and respect for architectural history. This is a landmark location. I have every confidence that their renovation will become a Main Street Icon.

Skinny on the Food: We’re holding our breath. The former Café Habana menu had some rock-solid, and fairly inexpensive winners. Moving forward that menu, and the Habana brand has been relegated to the basement. The main dining room (Lena) will be a new perspective on Latin flavors.  Me thinks’ that may be restaurant shorthand for ‘higher entre prices’. The folks behind Lena have a respectable palate, though in most of their establishments the beverage menus tend to overshadow the food menus. I’m more excited for the return of Ann Arbor’s best Caipirinha than the menu.

Verdict: This place is here to stay.

Photo by Angela Cesere (Annarbor.com)Vellum Restaurant (EDITED 9/10/12)

Owners: John and son, Peter Roumanis

Previous Work: Mediterrano, Carlyle Grill  - and long, long ago – part of Cottage Inn

Gossip on the Space: Technically the space is new, created when building owners spilt the space formerly used for the Full Moon, One Eyed Moose, Full Moon again and then Monkey Bar. Team Roumanis are creating a new two-storied concept, opening soon.  Their facebook page shows a few designs that indicate strong potential. 

Skinny on the Food: 

From Peter: "...The American menu will read as though you may or may not have eaten many of the dishes before. When the food arrives, however, it will be super composed ans stylized that integrates both traditional and modern technique influenced by my own working background."

I'm curious to see how that translates. Peter's challenge will be to seperate his menu from Mediterano and Carlyle where flavors are overpowering and unbalanced. They are the type of menus that let down a trained connoisseur, yet inexplicably delights “the real housewives” set (point in case, check out the crowd during happy hour at Carlyle).

Verdict: Chances are good. There’s plenty of transients and visiting parents in town to keep plenty of dining rooms full.

Name TBD – Mani’s Latin Twin

Owner: Adam Baru

Previous Work: Mani Osteria (and multiple big name concepts out East)

Gossip on the Space: The paint is barely dry in Mani and Adam’s at it again. He’s hired the same crew that did Mani so expect a similar design aesthetic. It will be casually sophisticated and minimalistic. The big question here is lighting. This space won’t have the benefit of natural light afforded to Mani.  I’m curious to see how they overcome that obstacle.

Skinny on the Food: Here’s a little not-so-secret fact; Adam’s wife grew up in Mexico. The menu is by no means a happy accident. Expect a tremendously authentic and original menu. Chef Brendan McCall is still relatively young and hungry. He’ll be pulling out every stop to solidify his status as a local celebrity chef.

Verdict: Hell to the Yeah. Hurry up and open already!

Name TBD – Former Champion House Space

Owner: [?] Can anyone remember who profiled this guy? Was it the Observer? 

Previous Work: None. He's a twenty-something college grad with a business degree and NO restaurant experience. Hmmmm....

Gossip on the Space: Yikes…one half outdated dining room, one-half Japanese steak house. The physical constraints of this floor plan will be difficult to energize. Ed Shaffran, the building owner is a real mench. I'm sure he had a good reason to lease the space to this group. Let's hope it wasn't desparation. The new tenants hired an accomplished desigher. Good Luck. 

Skinny on the food:  Yikes again. They made the carnal sin of describing their menu as “fusion.” They also failed to mention a chef of culiary consultant. That’s a pretty good indication that it will suck. 

Verdict: This place gets my Long-Shot Award. It could very likely become a tragic story of a bankrupt family who poured their entire retirement savings into a child’s dream. The location is not without challenge. It’ll take impressive word of mouth or an expensive marketing plans to draw folks away from Nain Street.

Zingerman’s Delicatessen Expansion Project

Owners: Ari, Paul & a band of Amazing Operating Partners

Gossip on the Space: No one is Ann Arbor has bent-over more to appease the rigid, and at times irrational, historical wonks.  Past deli expansion efforts resulted in a confused maze of chaos.  The latest deli renovation has the potential of resetting the clock and establishing a new, dramatically better experience. The new deli will create a space where people can shop, eat, learn and linger as opposed to the current battlefield that allows people to simply “survive.”

Skinny on the Food: No big changes here. All the things you love will remain.

Verdict: The Zingerman’s brand has grown well beyond the deli, a true testament to Ari & Paul’s vision. In the process, the little building at the corner of Kingsley and Detroit has lost some luster.  This renovation will allow the deli to retake its rightful place as the community’s crowned jewel.

Bills Beer Garden

Owners: Mark Hodesh & Bill Zolkowski

Previous Work: Downtown Home & Garden, Mark’s Carts, Union Kitchen

Gossip on the Space: Mark & Bill have been toiling away all summer to convert their southern parking lot into a beautiful social garden. From what I have seen, this will be a gift to the city. It will bring a social air to the block the same way Mark's Carts flows out onto Washington. 

Skinny on the Food: Stay tuned. I’m sure they’ll figure out a way to have goodies from Mark’s Carts present. Lord only knows what kind of horse-trading is involved with permits from the city and "equity" arguments from the cart vendors. The real story will be about the taps. Recent rumors include a pretty even selection of Michigan brewers.

Verdict: Watch out Dominicks, there’s a new outdoor oasis to get your drink on. And chances are it won’t be filled with drunk undergrads. 

Number Nine Hamburgers

Owner: Rodney McGrit

Gossip on the Space: Anyone who walks down Hoover on game day is familiar with the long lines around the Number Nine Hamburger stand. Those of you who don’t go to football games have no clue…until now. The street food revolution that blew-up locally with Mark’s Carts is heading towards campus. I know of at least three concepts in process of getting vending licenses to set-up food carts near State and South University. The first to open will hopefully be Number Nine Hamburgers, thanks to a successful fund raising campaign on Kickstarter earlier this year.

Skinny on the food: There’s something magic about a simple, honest burger fresh off the grill. There’s no big frills here, just good ol’ beef grilled fresh in front of your eyes.

Verdict: Go Rodney Go! A2GastroBoy loves entrepreneurs as much as I love food. It warms my heart to see a good man (or woman) make a go of it.  Good Luck Rodney!

RANDOM NOTES | Here's a few more thoughts before I go...

Death Watch: The only constant is change. Every year someone call it quits or goes belly-up. Here’s my prediction for 2012-13.

• The Melting Pot: really, REALLY? Who has eaten here? It’s a chain concept on Main Street. And a limiting niche concept at that. At some point the lease will be up. I would be shocked if the cash-flow from this place warrants another round.
• Mercy’s at the Belltower: I’m said about this one. And I hope I’m wrong. But this place does not stand on it’s own and there’s simply not enough at Hill to leverage a sustainable crowd. We’ll see. 

Opportunity Space: Is the restaurant scene saturated? Hell no. There’s always room for good ideas. Here’s two. Got more? Tell me in the comment section.

• Squares (formerly Dynersty & briefly Yoshi’s): Here’s the rub, the building is high-rent and the location is shit. Yes, Afternoon delight survives on the same block, but that’s solely based on a 20-year legacy. I guarantee you that if the same place opened new today it would fail. This space needs to be the next Frita. Who’s brave enough to try?
• West-Side Stadium Boulevard: I live on the west side; without going downtown the dining options are fairly limiting – and let’s face it – I can only eat at the Roadhouse so many times a week. So, here’s my challenge: build it and they will come. The west side is ripe for a young, unique and casual concept in one of the many low-rent vacancies.  Think EAT meets Wolverine Tap House. It needs to be a destination concept, a community-creating idea that draws traffic. Maybe a cooking school that serves dinner, or a collective of local farmers building a 7-day famer’s market that has a liquor license. Bring it on!

There you have it. Did I inspire you? Offend you? Hit comment below and leave a note. 

UP NORTH | Part One

PREFACE | Let me start by apologizing for taking such a lengthy hiatus. It’s been a long and busy summer. I’m finally back in Ann Arbor and simultaneously working on about five posts. I thought it was fitting to begin my return with some notes on Summer dining, which for me means “Up North.”

UP NORTH |  If you live in Michigan you’re accustomed to the term “Up North.” Though there’s some debate over what dictates “Up North.” At one point a friend argued that the 45^th parallel was the official line of demarcation. That seems a bit limiting, not to mention arbitrary. For me it’s M10, or effectively anything north of Claire.  Also arbitrary, still by that point you’re two hours from home, you no longer get Detroit radio and most importantly, your destination is almost certain to be a more rustic version of home. That’s up north.

Using either definition, the geographic mass encompassing “Up North” is huge. The cities and lakes that your neighbor visits are often quite different than the cities and lakes you frequent. That diversity makes for a pretty lengthy discussion when asked, “where do you like to eat up north?”

I’ve spent the last forty summers traveling north. I’d like to believe I’m fairly knowledgeable on the subject. For two years I’ve been considering practical ways to answer the question, “where do you like to eat up north?”  Yet each time I start scribing notes I’m confronted with the realty of scope; trying to summarize that much Michigan into a single article is a futile exercise. Writing separate “city-guides” for each community feels trite – not to mention light on content in some cases.

Inspiration is the mother of invention

During a July weekend north I had a long discussion about the ideal “up north” destination from the perspective of four Ann Arborites.  After sharing a lot of stories, and a lot of vodka, I came to the conclusion of “two bays.” Most of northern Michigan is trip-worthy. Picking a “best” destination is pointless.  That said, 96% of the lower-peninsula/Up-North greatness I've expereinced is confined to two geographic zones; Grand Traverse Bay, including Traverse City and the surrounding Communities and Little Traverse Bay, split between Emmet and Charlevoix counties. Finally – a format for organizing my Up-North posts.

I say posts, as in plural, because it’s still impossible to cover everything in one rambling piece. Today is Part One. Consider it a prologue. In the coming weeks I’ll post separate pieces detailing my Gastronomic favorites in each of the Bay regions.  As a warm-up exercise I’ve summarized my perspective on each region in the following table.  Does it make sense? What about you? What’s your favorite Up-North destination? Why? Click "Comment" after you read the table and tell me what'cha think.