For a host of reasons I’ve spent the last two years avoiding one topic. Pizza. I’ve come to appreciate that talking pizza is like discussing politics or religion… or in the case of Ann Arbor, both. Most of us were imprinted at a young age. Our opinions of good pizza are mired in emotion and sentiment. I grew up ‘Motor City’ which means I believe in the big three; Buddy’s Loui’s and Shields…square (technically rectangular) Sicilian deep dish. My brother in law is from Phili. He prays to an extra large, thin and foldable circle served by the slice and covered with Parmesan and “Son of Italy” seasoning. For the record, both rock.

Last fall rumors about [James Beard recognized] Chef Luciano Del Signore bringing his Pizzeria Biga concept to Ann Arbor started a meditation on Neapolitan Pizza. It’s suddenly everywhere. Now that the rumors about Biga are confirmed I’ve decided to put pen to paper (or pixels to screen).

Guido goes Gucci

While Pizza is a sacred thing, it’s forever been a culinary outcast, relegated to the lower end of the food-glamor hierarchy.  Glamor be damned. Pizza’s like the honey badger, he don’t care. Over the last fifty years this “outcast” has grown into a multi-billion dollar category. Unable to ignore dollar signs, the culinary elite have started paying attention to pizza.

Like most great trends, it started on the coasts. One brand in particular, CPK, has single handedly elevated pizza from fast food gut-fill to an affordable luxury item (AKA casual dining). A decade later we’re witnessing a new pizza-elite arms race. Celebrated chefs have joined the fight.  For some, it’s an empire building brand extension (Wolfgang Puck’s Pizzeria and Cuccisa and frozen pizzas). For others it’s a savvy tactic to offset declines in fine dining (Chef Luciano’s Biga). Regardless of motivation, it’s a thing.  If you don’t believe me read this 2009 collective piece from New York Magazine. 

• The Great New York Neoclassical Neapolitan Pizza Revolution

This is not your Father’s Oldsmobile / Dr. Atkins Kills the Carb / Pizza Rises Again

It’s important to acknowledge that as the market has evolved, so has the product.

Case and Point: I’ve made my crush on Vinsetta Garage public. When I learned that they served pizza I assumed it would be akin to Buddy’s.  This is Detroit of coarse; they serve Casserole dishes of Mac-n-Cheese to single diners. It seemed predestined that it would be dense, comma-inducing Sicilian pizza. Not so fast. While they are 100% Motor City, this is post-bail-out Detroit. Everyone is leaner and smarter. The studied option was to install a stone hearth and sell a more refined pizza (no offense intended to Buddy’s). Well played Curt and Ann.

 So what is Neapolitan Pizza?

There’s a few critical attributes that define success for the Neapolitan Pizza. 

The Dough     Pizza dough has a fairly simple ingredient list. Still, what seems “simple” quickly becomes a complicated science. Neapolitan Pizza dough is graduate level dough science.  The result is a light, chewy, richly flavored dough with huge cell structure. When done well it’s marvelous. The name of Chef Luciano’s pizzeria is taken from the foundation of this dough, Biga.  In the Spirit of lazy journalism here’s a fine explanation compliments of Wikipedia:

Biga is a type of pre-ferment used in Italian baking. Many popular Italian breads, such as ciabatta, are made using a biga. Using a biga adds complexity to the bread's flavour and is often used in breads which need a light, open texture with holes. Apart from adding to flavour and texture, a biga also helps to preserve bread by making it less perishable. Biga techniques were developed after the advent of baker's yeast as bakers in Italy moved away from the use of sourdough and needed to recover some of the flavour which was given up in this move.

Bigas are usually dry and thick compared to the French poolish or a sourdough starter. This thickness is believed to give a Biga its characteristic slightly nutty taste. Biga is usually made fresh every day, using a small amount of baker's yeast in a thick dough, which varies from 37% to 50% water by total weight or 60% to 100% as a bakers percentage, and is allowed to ferment from 12 to 16 hours to fully develop its flavour.

After fermenting overnight, biga is then added to the bread dough in place of, or in addition to, regular baker's yeast, depending on the recipe, and the bread dough is mixed, kneaded, raised, shaped, proofed, and baked like any other yeast dough.

What’s On Top     The second key to Neapolitan Pizza is in the way it is topped. The American tradition of mounding cheese and meats would weigh down the light and delicate dough, preventing a proper rise. If there’s any sauce at all, it’s a minimalist painting of crushed tomatoes. More common is a drizzle of olive oil. The rich, almost nutty dough flavor lends itself to more savory pairings.  The most widely recognized is a Margherita Pizza, with a sparing few dollops of fresh mozzarella and fresh basil. I’ve become a fan of more adventuresome flavors, like the “Countryman” at Michael Isabella’s Graffiato in Washington, DC (black truffle, fontina, farmed soft egg). Locally we call that Tartufo.

The Oven     The final step is in cooking method. All dough perform better when cooked on stone. The slab holds a hotter, more even heat that conventional ovens. And it takes a significant shock of heat to activate this dough. Most pizza hearths remain between 800 and 1000 degrees. In addition to quickly activating the rise, it cooks the pizza much faster, some as quick as three minutes versus the 20-30 minutes it can take to fully cook a Buddy’s deep dish; another smart reason for table-turning restaurateurs to pick Neapolitan.

The Neapolitan Pizza Movement in Ann Arbor

In relatively short order we’ve gone from zero to multiple high profile options. Here’s a run-down.

Mani   Yes, I’m a fan boy. Still, you need to give Adam and the crew props. They’re more than just pretty faces. They perfectly executed on the ideal.  The dough at Mani is lustful. The topping combinations are inspired. While I’m addicted to Arugula & Prosciutto, all are worth note.  Highlights include Red Onions & Pistachio (red onion & pistachio, Goat cheese, rosemary, chile flakes) or Burrata & Balsamic (burrata cheese, garlic spinach, balsamic onions).

And while this is a post about pizza, I would be doing you a dis-service if I did not mention a few of the other Mani highlights. Of coarse the pickled tomatoes have become an obligatory signature. For me, the charred Octopus has become a moral imperative; the lemon and celery add an acidic punch and crunchy bite that perfectly partner the mellow and chewy grilled sea creature. I’m also a big fan of the Branzino (fish).

NeoPapalis      For an entirely different reason, I am exceptionally intrigued by NeoPapalis. It’s one thing for Mani to flaunt a high fashion concept. It’s another thing entirely for a man who’s made his career selling deep-dish pizza to suddenly create a well financed foray into a ”thin crust.”   

For those out of the know, Neo Papalis is the latest project by Joe Sheena, the man behind’s Detroit’s famed deep-dish Pizza Papalis. Sheena is a savvy businessman. His Neapolitan pizza is more than personal interest. He’s investing in the next big thing. Whereas Mani is a boutique, Neo Papalis represents mass-market commercialization. His ovens are gas and steel versus Mani’s brick and fire. The space is designed for high-volume and replication. This would not exist if there were not a compelling business plan. Neo Papalis is proof that Neapolitan pizza has officially gone main stream.

Pizzeria Biga (opening Summer 2013)     Perhaps the bigger story is that Washtenaw will soon have restaurants worth visiting.  Biga joins Café Zola and another yet-to-be named concept in the still under-construction Arbor Hills Crossing (formerly Arlington Square, formerly Goodman Oldmobile, Cadillac & Isuzu).

For those of you who don’t venture Beyond Washtenaw County, Chef Luciano Del Signore owns a celebrated fine-dining Italian bistro in Southfield named Bacco Ristorante. After the financial crash of '08 he decided to diversify and open a casual dining concept. Enter Pizzeria Biga. 

Many will compare Biga to Mani. On the surface they are very similar concepts. Emotionally Chef Luciano and Adam Baru connect with their community in very different tones. I am confident that both can thrive simultaneously. The fact that they will exist in such separate ecosystems, downtown and suburban, lends tremendous distance to their competition.

What do you think?

I've had an affinity for cocktails since childhood. I'd like to believe I come by it naturally. My maternal grandparents had a daily 4:00 PM Manhattan ritual. When I was lucky enough to visit their house during "cocktail hour" I was served a Cherry Coke, before the modern brand extension, made with grenadine. We would relax on their mid-century mod furniture, listen to the radio and enjoy some creamed herring or Schuller's Cheese on Ritz crackers [insert Wes Allen video cut here]. I couldn't fathom anything more decadent or sophisticated.

As much as I cherish the Manhattan memories, I’ll admit that my personal drinking career started rather humbly with cheap beer, wine coolers and Zima. The only liquor I drank came in the form of a shot, commonly Pepper Stoli served with a pickle (Sveiks!). My idea of a cocktail was actually a mixed drink (gin & tonic). 

In my twenties Vince Vaughn and the Movie Swingers introduced me to the Martini. A few years later a buddy grooming his taste for scotch got me into whiskey. We explored the global regions of mash and debated cigar pairings. While I still don't care for "Peaty" scotch the process lead me to Bourbon, my one true love, which in turn brought me back to the Manhattan. Life comes full circle.

MIXOLOGY

In the last 2-3 years the sport of cocktails and the art of mixology have gone from modest fad to full blown social craze. New restaurants can't open without a well-planned cocktail strategy. A host of craft distilleries are cropping up.  And most notably, a new breed of artisan bartenders have started opening establishments dedicated to the fine art of mixology. These drink houses are so thoughtful and skilled that referring to them simply as "bars" is naive and limiting.  

Which brings me to the purpose of this post. It's been brought to my attention that I am not "A2Whiskeyboy." More than one reader has challenged my opinion of cocktails at local restaurants.  In retrospect, using the word “Epic” to describe Lena’s cocktail menu was a bit aspirational.

So what is an Epic Cocktail?

It’s appropriate to share that just as I am not a “Foodie,” I do not consider myself  a “Mixologist.” I enjoy good flavor, witty banter and a ‘spirited’ buzz.  I enjoy cocktails.  Having said that, I do not have the time nor inclination to research twenty versions of bitters, let alone brew my own. When someone turns me on to something great I am forever grateful.  

Back to the matter at hand…In an effort to separate genuine artifact from hipster showmanship I decided it was time to do some research on cocktails. As a public service in my on-going campaign to eradicate douche bags everywhere I thought I share what I know.

HISTORY LESSONS & RESEARCH

(fair warning – this section gets dense. If you’re not in the mood for a thick read scroll down to the next section)

For the purpose of this piece, a Cocktail will be defined as an alcoholic mixed drink that contains three or more ingredients—at least one of the ingredients must be a spirit. An alcoholic drink containing only two ingredients (EG Rum & Coke) is simply a “Mixed Drink.”

As you might imagine, there are literally hundreds of “experts” on the topic and even more opportunistic blowhards. Luckily almost every reputable thought leader references two specific tombs. Written nearly one hundred years apart, these two books shape a significant portion of the modern cocktail.

The first, published in 1862, is “The Bartender’s Guide” by Jerry Thomas AKA “the Father of American Mixology.” Many reprints refer to this book as the Bon-Vivant Companion. Mixologists often list this book as a key inspiration and invaluable reference. I dare say the punch revival owes its entire existence to this book.  Thomas is also credited with inventing the Tom Collins.

Understand, this book is almost entirely recipes. There are fantastic step-by-step instructions for brewing, blending and concocting tens, if not hundreds of “social drinks.” Given it’s age and command of nineteenth King’s English I can’t help but imagine it as a steam-punk era reality show.  And while the recipes are fascinating, I was more entranced by the historical social commentary woven within the Preface.

“In all of the ages of the world, and in all countries, men have indulged in “Social drinks.” They have always possessed themselves of some popular beverage apart from water and those of the breakfast and tea table. Whether it is judicious that mankind should continue to indulge in such things, or whether it would be wiser to abstain from all enjoyments of that character, it is not our province to decide. We leave that question to the moral philosopher. We simply contend that a relish for “social drinks” is universal; that those drinks exist in greater variety in the United States than any other country in the world; and that he, therefore, who proposes to impart o these drink not only the most palatable but the most wholesome characteristics on which they be made susceptible, is a genuine public benefactor. That is exactly our object in introducing this little volume to the public. We do not propose to persuade any man to drink, for instance, a punch, or a julep, or a cocktail, who has never happened to make the acquaintance of those refreshing articles under circumstances calculated to induce more intimate relations; but we do propose to instruct those whose “intimate relations” in question render them somewhat fastidious, in the daintiest fashions thereunto pertaining.

…It struck us, then, that a list of all the social drinks – the composite beverages, if we may call the so – of America, would really be one of the curiosities of jovial literature; and that if it was combined with a catalogue of the mixtures common to other nations, and made practically useful by the addition of a concise description of the various process for “brewing” each, it would be a “blessing to mankind.” There would be no excuse for imbibing, with such a book at hand, the “villainous compounds” of bar-keeping Goths and Vandals, who know no more of the amenities of bon-vivant existence than a Hottentot can know of the bouquet of champagne.”

As I’ve mentioned, the book then moves on to recipe after recipe. It’s a wonderful resource for researching ingredients. That said, it lacks context or discussion. For more commentary on the subject I prefer David Embury’s 1948 classic, “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks.” Like A2GastroBoy, Embury is not a bartender. He is a discerning patron of the art. This distinction creates a more studied meditation on the topic.

In Embury’s book he outlines a few core tenants that, while not totally without exception, articulate what many may intuitively understand. Like Thomas’ book, this is very much a recipe book, though Embury adds a significant amount of rationale for each section. He opens by defining his six-part criteria for a cocktail. In the absence of a formal governing body, I will adopt these criteria as the definition of a cocktail.

1. It must whet the appetite, not dull it
2. It should stimulate the mind as well as the appetite
3. It must be pleasing to the palate
4. It must also please the eye
5. It must have sufficient alcoholic flavor to be readily distinguishable from papaya juice, yet must not assault the palate with the force of an atomic bomb
6. Finally (and remember I am speaking now of cocktails only and not aperitif wines) it must be well iced

Embury goes on to define three necessary ingredients.

1. The Base: “This is the fundamental and distinguishing ingredient of the cocktail and must always comprise more than 50 percent of the entire volume…Strictly speaking, the base must always consist of spirituous liquors – whiskey, gin, rum, brandy, etc.”
2. The Modifying Agent: “It is difficult to find a word that exactly describes this ingredient (or group of ingredients) and, for want of a better term, I have called it the modifying agent or modifier. It is the ingredient, in combination with the base spirituous liquor, which characterizes the cocktail. Without this ingredient, the base, no matter how violently shaken and how thoroughly chilled, would still not be a cocktail but would remain merely chilled liquor… in general, modifying agents may be divided into three classes:
   1. Aromatics, including the aromatic wines such as French and Italian vermouth, Dubonnet, Byrrh, etc.,; bitter of various types and misc. aromatics.
   2. Fruit Juices with or without sugar
   3. Miscellaneous “Smoothing” agents – sugar, cream, eggs, etc.
3. Special Flavoring and Coloring Agents: There include all the various cordials or liqueurs as well as non-alcoholic fruit syrups. Moreover, the ingredient used as a modified in one cocktail may be used solely for incidental flavoring or coloring in another…Of all the factors involved in the mixing of cocktails, flavoring agents are undoubtedly the most abused. They should never dominate or overpower the flavor of the base. The special flavoring agents should be measured by drops or dashes, not by ponies or jiggers.

The book goes through nearly every conceivable drink category, providing background and offering multiple variations on core recipes.  It’s a fascinating read. And while there are likely hundreds of recipes in the book, Embury lays claim that six basic cocktails would satisfy the majority of all drinkers. I’ve listed the six basic cocktails below.

Martini

7 parts English gin

1 part French (dry) vermouth

Stir with ice, strain into a cocktail glass, twist lemon peel over the top and serve garnished with an olive, preferably one stuffed with any kind of nut.

Manhattan

5 parts American whiskey

1 part Italian (sweet) vermouth

dash of Angostura bitters to each drink

Stir with ice, strain into a cocktail glass and serve garnished with a maraschino cherry.

Old Fashioned

12 parts American whiskey

1 part simple syrup

1-3 dashes Angostura bitters to each drink

In an old-fashioned glass, add bitters to simple syrup and stir. Add about 1 ounce of whiskey and stir again. Add two cubes of cracked, but not crushed, ice and top off with the rest of the whiskey. Twist lemon peel over the top and serve garnished with the lemon peel and a maraschino cherry.

Daiquiri

8 parts white Cuban rum

2 parts lime juice

1 part simple syrup

Shake with lots of finely crushed ice and strain well into a chilled cocktail glass.

Sidecar

8 parts Cognac or Armagnac

2 parts lemon juice

1 part Cointreau or triple sec

Shake vigorously with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon if desired.

Jack Rose

8 parts Applejack

2 parts lemon juice

1 part Grenadine

Shake vigorously with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon if desired.

[edit]me juice).

To fully address the subject of spirits and the craft of cocktails one should study the grain bill for each base, the chemistry of modifying agents and the sensory impact of each coloring and flavor ingredient. That’s too involved for this piece. I will, however, comment on two external attributes of the cocktail.

Ice

David Embury makes it clear that a cocktail should be well iced. In whiskey circles there’s a pretty heated debate over whether or not one should use ice to drink a fine whiskey. Purists argue that the melting ice dilutes the subtle flavor notes, thereby undermining the experience. There’s even a line of “whiskey stones” that one can keep in the freezer. You achieve a chill without watering down the flavor. Yes, I know sipping whiskey is a different sport than cocktails. Stay wih me.

I’m an “on the rocks” kind of guy, and not because I’m low-brow, which I most certainly am, but because I enjoy the evolving experience of  a drink with melting ice. I find it pleasant to start the ride by spiking my spirit with the full strength sting of a good Bourbon. As my mood warms and the ice melts, the drink moves from a sipping elixir to a more sizable gulp. It’s a process. That same principle can apply to cocktails. 

Recently Ice has become a front line weapon in the arms race of mixology showmanship. It started with large 1.5" square blocks of ice. The theory being, the larger mass retains it's temperature longer thereby slowing the melt and reducing the dilution, still providing a palatable chill. Pretty cool. Very quickly that grew into a fad of flavored ice cubes. The best local examples are at Lena. The execution can be hit or miss. I absolutely loved the peach fruit sphere used to chill a drink. It became a delicious dessert. Conversely, I was unsettled sucking on a spent lce cube that contained lime-mint juice.  The “Rad or Fad” jury is till out.

Finally, on a recent trip I was formally introduced to the “ice sphere.” The sphere takes the large block science and add a sense of artistry. Apparently this sport began in Japan where bartenders hand-carve the sphere from square blocks. It’s unthinkable to service an entire bar with hand carving. Check out this video where it takes a well trained bar keep four minutes to make a single sphere [ LINK ]. As you might imagine, there are now plenty of opportunistic marketers ready to sell you pre-fab ice sphere molds. Is this "Rad or Fad?" Discuss. 

Glass Ware

I could write an entire piece about glassware. It’s an area of total obsessive fascination, further fueled by sky mall catalogs. For now I’ll simply say this…don’t go crazy. Standards of identity exist for a reason. A single splash of champagne to finish a drink does not warrant a flute. And don’t go cheap. The glass matters. Just as wine should be served in Reidel, don't serve my bourbon in Sysco-grade glassware. My final thought on glassware is this…  can we all agree that the coupe is utterly emasculating?

LOCAL MIXOLOGISTS / DRINKING IN ANN ARBOR

Thirsty? There’s quite a few fine local establishments ready to make you a cocktail.  Here’s just a few. Some are simply Restaurants with tremendous bars, others are dedicated Cocktail Houses. All are worthwhile watering holes. 

The Bar at 327 Braun Court: I recently read a piece that referred to the interior as “the living room of the coolest person you know.” Seriously? You need better friends (we love you Eric. Now wash your hair). All joking aside, Bravo to the team at Braun Ct. Not only are they single-handedly leading the fight to brink back punch, they refuse to rest on their laurels. Every few months they reinvent the menu with new ideas and new flavors. Well done.

Raven’s Club: Yes, I’m publicly suggesting that folks visit the Raven’s Club.  And no, I didn’t hit my head. It’s clear that the team at 207 South Main are dedicated to continuous improvement. And on a flattering note, there’s rumor of a Pappy Van Winkle bottle on site.

Pacific Rim: Before the renovation that doubled their space I would never consider Pacific Rim a drinking destination. Today it’s a highlight on the Main Street area circuit.  Pacific Rim bartenders apply the same meticulous attention to detail that made their dinner menu menu a success. The staff is exceptionally knowledgeable and well skilled.

The Grange: We cried when Bartender Jen left. Luckily her successors have done her proud. If you've never had it you MUST try the  GKB Manhattan (Bacon infused Bulleit Bourbon, maple syrup, blood orange bitters, brandied cherries). I'm also a fan of their GGGinger (fresh mint, ginger syrup, lime juice, Tanqueray, ginger beer, crystallized ginger). As a bonus, every time you walk up the stairs you get to pretend you're a pirate (seriously, doesn't the banister remind you of a boat, climbing up to the captains watch?). 

The Last Word: The fine lads from Big Ten Burrito fame appear to have successfully revitalized the Good Night Gracy’s space. While I’ve yet to visit, they’re getting high marks for their version of the craft cocktail scene. The "kids" in my office rave.   

Café Habana: There’s a healthy debate in town regarding the quality of drink at Habana. Some believe they specialize in exotic Latin-American classics. Some argue they’re watered-down fruit juice. I tend to sway towards the former, though I recognize opportunities. In either case, the space is fabulous and it was the first bar (in it’s former location) to bring the Caprihania to Ann Arbor.

Café Felix: Why, I still remember when they had yet to score a liquor license and only the bourgeois hispter-want-to-bes went to Felix - so they could sit outside smoking and scribbling in their Emo journals.  Today there’s a few reasons to like Felix. The latest reason will be its’ familial connection the Detroit’s soon-to-open distillery, Two James.

Bab's Underground Lounge: This choice will likely illicit debate from the craft cocktail elitists, still I think Bab is a fabulous barkeep. Her decision to offer pitchers of booze is a riot. She even broke down and posted a sign. Now all the drunk undergrads who wander off campus can find her. 

Where else? This is by no means a complete list. Where do you drink? What do you drink?

Final Note (AKA Snark attack): While I’ll admit my research is not yet exhausted, I can’t find any pragmatic correlation between armbands and the quality of cocktails. Can anyone help? I’m sure I’m missing something. It can’t truly be a hooky gimmick, right?